My new sewing guides will teach you to sew doll clothes, end the mystery around sewing terms, help you stop wasting money on the wrong fabrics and give you the right tools for the job. Follow these tips and you will find that sewing at a small scale will be easier and less frustrating. The tips that I share are all based on my many years of experience sewing doll clothes. They will increase the quality of the little garments you sew. Whether you are sewing your first simple doll skirt for your child’s doll or you’re an experienced sewer wanting to downsize your sewing, having the rights tools for each task will make your life a lot easier.
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Part 1: The Right Tools for Sewing Doll Clothes
This post is Part 1 in my new series of Doll Clothes Sewing Guides – as tools are the starting point of any sewing journey. Think of this Guide as a summer holiday packing checklist – there are some essentials that you don’t want to leave behind (like your swimwear and sunnies), and some nice to haves (like those flip flops in a third different colour) which make for a good finishing touch. So lets make sure you have the right tools to make sewing doll clothes a more enjoyable and easier process! The full list of tools you need to sew doll clothes is below – Pin it for later.
Fabric Scissors
Have you ever tried to cut fabric with scissors made for cutting paper? Go ahead and try it! Even with the sharpest paper scissors it’s hard to cut fabric and you’ll end up with ragged frayed fabric and wonky edges. Not really what you need for sewing small doll clothes. Invest in a good pair of fabric scissors (also called tailor’s or dressmaking shears) and you won’t regret it. What you will regret is when you’ve left them out and your darling child uses them to cut sticky tape, or your other half decides to open that parcel with them. My advice – HIDE THEM and KEEP THEM HIDDEN. Write something like ‘FABRIC ONLY’ in bold permanent marker on the side of the scissors. Sew or tie a ribbon around the handle – anything that makes it darn obvious what they are for. You can even get scissor tags to make it really clear. These are some of my favs:
I’ve just ordered the flower one and I love it! My fabric scissors are safe now.
You will need paper scissors for cutting out your sewing patterns, but as most people have these, I won’t go on about them.
Embroidery scissors
My sewing machine has ‘scars’ on the front where I’ve used my big fabric scissors to snip thread and have scraped my machine in the process, ouch. This doesn’t happen with small scissors so I’d definitely recommend getting yourself a nice pretty pair of embroidery scissors. I’m a great believer in having things that ‘spark joy’ for you – so find a pair that you love rather than buying a basic pair. You’ll find them useful for fiddly parts of doll clothes sewing, like when you have to cut a tiny seam down or snip tiny notches in the tiny seam allowance.
Don’t go too novelty as you may find that they don’t work particularly well. I’ve been very pleased with mine (they are like the Colourful ones in the Esty link below – in pink). Good brands include Hemline, Prym, Merchant and Mills and Fiskars (classic orange handles).
Fun fact – why all the stork shaped embroidery scissors?
It is believed that over time these scissors began to take the shape of a stork, because originally they were designed with a clamp that midwives used to clamp off umbilical chords. Check out this midwife’s kit. They say you learn something every day – not sure we needed to learn that but never mind!
Seam ripper
We all make mistakes, no matter how long we’ve been sewing. My most frequent mistake is sewing sleeves on back to front, but sometimes I don’t follow the instructions correctly or I’ll be sewing too late into the evening and just generally get things wrong. But whatever mistake you have made, it’s important that you don’t give up and chuck it in the bin in a fit of rage, because it doesn’t take long to undo a seam with the right tool. Unpicking your mistakes is an integral part of the sewing process that you just have to embrace. The good thing about doll clothes is that the seams and hems are small, so when you sew that sleeve on upside-down, it’s only a quick unpick rather than a hand fatiguing marathon. Small is beautiful.
Not sure how to use a seam ripper? There is actually more than one way to unpick your mistakes as this helpful video explains…
Tailor’s Awl
I have only recently invested in a tailor’s awl, so I think it is definitely on the ‘nice to have’ list. I got by for years using the pointy end of a compass (as in pair of compasses) to make holes when needed. This does work, but the awl makes cleaner holes and you can make bigger holes if you need to – by sliding the fabric further up the awl. Why do you need one I hear you ask?
- Feeding fabric: Feed cloth into a sewing machine – this is good for small seams and hems, and keeps your fingers safely out of the way
- Marking: Mark the placement of buttonholes, pleats, or darts
- Creating holes: Make holes for sewing and eyelets, especially in thick fabrics like leather or canvas
- Unpicking: Unpick threads
- Keeping seam allowances in place: Prevent seam allowances from flipping in the wrong direction when stitching across intersecting seams
Locking Forceps
So, if the stork scissors originally had medical origins, then locking forceps definitely did and still have medical uses today. I was a bit skeptical when I bought my pair, but they are my most useful and well used tool for doll sewing and doll making. I first got them for getting original doll hair out from inside a doll head before a re-root (see this post if you want to find out more about that crazy project) but they have so many sewing uses. Have you ever struggled ‘bagging out’ a tiny lined bodice? Pulling all that fabric through tiny shoulder seams? Forceps can help – use them gently to ease the fabric through. You can also use them to help turn narrow cloth doll arms and legs right side out and for stuffing them. Use them to help get your dolls dressed, by reaching into a narrow sleeve and pulling an arm through. Craft tweezers are a good alternative but don’t lock in the same way. Both tools can be used to help hold those tiny seams when sewing.
Point turner
When you’re sewing a tiny collar and you need something to push into the corner then a point turning tool is your friend – but for fashion doll clothes, the normal ones are likely to be too chunky. This is another tool that I have only recently invested in, as there are plenty of DIY alternatives. Basically, raid your kitchen, messy draw, kids craft cupboard and find anything that is longish and has a narrow but rounded point. The rounded end is important. Don’t use toothpicks or anything similar which has a sharp point. It’s tempting to pick up your nice sharp embroidery scissors and poke them into that pesky corner that won’t pop out – but avoid the temptation, for down that path lies holes and regret. Chopsticks are a personal favourite and knitting needles are also a good option (just not the really big chunky ones, for obvious reasons!).
Fray check liquid
This is one of my essentials and a game changer for sewing dolls clothes. Why? Because the usual methods you may use for finishing seams add unwanted bulk (stitching) or are too ‘big’ (pinking shears). I know that using pinking shears is an easy way to stop a seam fraying, but the zig zags are too large for the seam allowance on most doll clothes, which are often under 5mm. Apply fray check liquid before you start sewing your seams – just make sure you test it out first to make sure it doesn’t ‘bleed’ into the fabric too much or leave a mark. You’ll find that it stops your seams fraying which means that it’s easier to sew them neatly.
Fabric glue is something I’ve only recently started using. I was worried that it would end up being a sticky mess, but when you use it sparingly and apply it carefully with a cocktail stick, it can really help. You’ll find it great for temporarily holding small hems, cuffs and neckline finishings in place, particularly on jersey fabrics. It also stops the jersey over stretching and makes it more stable for you to work with.
Fabric marking pens/ pencils
Back in the day, the only option for marking fabric was the humble tailor’s chalk triangle. I was so happy when I got my first fabric pen – I know, I’m easily pleased. When you are working at a small scale, anything that makes a big fat mark on your fabric is hopeless, as you’ll end up cutting into your seam allowance or making it too big or too small.
When marking fabric, choose options that show up well on your fabric. You can use fabric pens, which are usually blue and either water or air soluble. I prefer water-soluble pens as the line seems to last a bit longer. You will definitely need a fine line version to avoid inaccuracies. For darker fabrics, the best option is a water-soluble white fabric pencil with a fine tip or sharp point.
Loop Turner
If you’ve ever tried to turn a small strap in the right way without a good tool, then you will probably have ended up pushing, prodding, shaking it vigorously, cursing, swearing and then throwing the crumpled mess in the bin. When sewing at a small scale, you’ll find these issues are 10 times worse. The solution? A loop turner – it’s a thin metal rod with a hook and latch at the end and is made for turning narrow tubes of fabric, such as straps or belts. This tool does come with a warning, as it does take a few tries to get it to work and you can end up damaging your fabric. My suggestion is that you practice on a larger scrap strap first before your lovely doll sewing project. But for really narrow (under 5mm) straps, I don’t think there is an alternative. You can also use the straw and rod method – or buy fancy versions. It is a much better method as it won’t rip the fabric and is more gentle, but it doesn’t work on really thin straps. Instead of buying them, you can find DIY alternatives, like a thin wooden dowel and sturdy straw. I like the challenge of finding things that work. You could even turn it into a game and get the kids to find things for you!
Ruler
I don’t think this tool needs any explanation. Any ruler will do as long as it’s straight (obviously!), although for your doll clothes sewing, a short ruler is usually sufficient and will help you to mark nice straight lines on your fabric and measure where any markings should be placed.
Sewing gauge
While not essential, a sewing gauge is useful for measuring and marking hems, button placement, and pleats. Some also come with a point turner for added convenience.
Needles
Use fine sewing needles for thin fabrics when sewing doll clothes. For sewing machine needles, choose the appropriate type for the fabric (e.g., ballpoint needles for jersey, thicker needles for denim). Don’t hesitate to sew a seam by hand if it’s too small to machine sew, and always replace your needles frequently. I often sew by hand in the evening whilst watching TV or in the summer, it’s nice to take your sewing outside and put your feet up in the garden. Don’t be put off hand sewing if your first attempt is all wonky, it just takes time and practice to improve, and you’ll be sewing super neat seams in no time. I have a daylight desk lamp that I can easily move to wherever I’m sewing in the evening, as being able to see your tiny stitches clearly really helps. It also has a magnifying glass which is a neat extra.
Pins
When I started sewing I had no idea that there were so many types of pins of all different lengths and thickness. If you’re struggling to pin a small item of doll clothing then you may find shorter or thinner pins are easier to use. For doll clothes, use normal dressmaking pins and avoid anything extra long or too thick. I found short glass head pins (30 – 32 mm) are perfect as they are an ideal size and heat resistant. Keep your pins sharp, not bent, or rusty, otherwise they will do nasty things to your fabric like leave rusty marks or make holes.
Pin cushion
Add a pretty pin cushion to your sewing box to keep pins and needles handy while sewing. If you want to make one, you’ll find lots of free patterns with a quick search online. Otherwise you can buy a handmade one from an Etsy store – here are some of my favourite ones:
Magnetic pin holders, which you can wear on your wrist, are also a great option.
Threading needle / bodkins
Threading elastic through narrow casings on doll clothes can be a tricky business, but the right tools will help make it easy. I used to struggle trying to thread with a safety pin on the end of the elastic, but even the smallest safety pin will get caught in the casing. Instead, you can try a blunt large-eyed needle, typically used for wool, to thread elastic. You can also buy bodkins and threaders specifically designed for this purpose but I find the needle works just fine.
Tissue paper
Have you ever tried to sew a tiny seam only to have your sewing machine chew it up so it’s nearly impossible to release it from its evil clutches? Yup, me too. It’s so frustrating to see your tiny seam all mangled so you have to start over. When I discovered this hack, I was so happy as it works like a charm. All you have to do is place tissue paper underneath small pieces of sewing to prevent the machine from chewing them up. After sewing your seam, simply tear the paper away. So simple and so effective.
Iron
Shall I let you into a secret? I only iron my clothes when absolutely essential and do as little ironing as possible! But when I’m sewing, I don’t mind ironing. I did think getting a mini iron, as it seemed to make sense, but when I researched them, the user reviews were never great. So I’ve stuck using my normal iron as it has a nice pointy end. Just keep some tweezers or an awl to hand to keep your fingers out of the way when pressing the smallest of small seams. The nice pointed end works well for doll clothes. Use the hottest setting your fabric can handle and steam where possible to achieve a neat finish. Iron seams as you go along. You’ll only need a small ironing board (I have a table top one). Test your fabric first if you are unsure of its composition. If you’re like me and want to sew things as quickly as possible, you may be tempted to skip the ironing bit, but I would urge you not to give in to the temptation. You will thank me when instead of a slightly wonky crumpled outfit, you have something much neater.
Tracing paper / baking parchment & cardboard
Keep tracing paper or smooth baking parchment handy for tracing patterns from books. If you want to sew something more than once or start your own dolly clothing production line, create some reusable pattern pieces by sticking them to cardboard before cutting out the shapes. Then draw around them on the back of your fabric. Finally, cut out the fabric.
Sewing machine
I seem to have left the biggest piece of sewing equipment until the end! The great thing about sewing doll clothes is that you don’t need a fancy sewing machine that looks like a computer, or even a sewing machine at all – as you can sew by hand. But if you do want to invest in one, all you need is a good quality basic machine. You don’t need an expensive sewing machine for sewing doll clothes but avoid any ‘toy’ or miniature machines. You can buy one second-hand or borrow one to start your sewing journey.
While modern machines are all electric, a vintage hand-cranked machine like a Singer is excellent for learning to sew doll clothes, it’s what I started learning on when I was a child. The standard foot is narrow, making it perfect for sewing small seams, and you have complete control over the speed. The most sought-after machines have a back-stitch function, but with the earlier models you have to stop, rotate the fabric, do a couple of stitches, and then restart.
Congratulations, you’ve read (or skipped) to the end of the post and now know what tools and equipment you need to help you sew perfect doll clothes. Follow me on socials and look out for Part 2 sometime soon!
If you’re keen to start sewing some doll clothes then look no further than these free patterns or head over to my Etsy shop – there’s a special 15% discount on Esty for my lovely Blog readers – click here to claim it! You’ll also get a free doll clothes sewing ebook with every pattern you buy.
